Into Laos

The ride to the border post from the hotel was less than a mile, and in fairness, for a border town, it was well groomed ....

Last chance to buy a carved elephant..

It took about 2 hours for Police and Customs to come and check our bikes, and us, and then we were given the all clear to go.  Abdul followed us to the very last check, and then with a wave, we were suddenly out of China, and in the no-mans land between there and the Laos Immigration.

My thoughts were with Abdul and his driver as they now faced an 8 day drive, back through China to our starting point (and Abdul's home) in Kashgar.

Soon the fake splendour of Laos Immigration hits us ...

.... and the Disinfectant spray ... nice welcome !

We park up, and I thought I was smart putting US$ 35 in a pocket to cover the Laos visa exactly ... No, first there is a US$ 3 environmental charge, and then another $ 2 processing fee. and I think one more if memory serves.

It takes about an hour of bun-fighting at the window to get in, and then we get on our way, but I was wondering what had happened to Customs.   About 5 km down the road, it provided the answer as we get to the Customs post.  Here you hand in your bike registration, and they give you a Temporary Import Certificate.  Fairly painless, so for the second time, we get ready for a long ride.

Alan was with us one minute, then simply disappeared, so we never had a chance to say Goodbye, but myself, John, and Jeremy did have a final lunch in Oudomxay.  Jeremy headed off to Luang Prabang, and myself and John headed for Chiang Mai.

There was a sudden downpour about 3pm, just as a way of reminding us rainy season was still on us ... never mind, in 30 mins, it was all over.

We were not sure how far we would get that day ... I was pushing on, but it was a good call when around 5pm, John suggested we stay in Pak Beng overnight ... obviously the right decision as we drank a beer overlooking the Mekong.  After all, we were in no hurry.

I had stayed in this hotel before, but the last time it was nursing a broken ankle ! So, while the hotel was familiar, this time I had mobility, and there were a lot of bars to discover ... which John helped me do !

Thailand tomorrow.

The Last Supper.

Checked out at 12 noon on the dot, nursing a bit of a hangover. Gingerly followed Abdul out of the city ...

The last stint was not a Toll road, but was still was a 2-lane, well built highway.  I was going to say it wound its way through the mountains towards Laos, but in reality, the Chinese took a more straight line approach, and tunnels and bridges were the order of the day...

And as if to say Goodbye to us, even though this wasn't a toll road, the buggers saw it in their wisdom to ban motorbikes on this one too !

Arriving at our hotel in Mohan, we just got there before the rain ... the Swiss lads & Alan, who were about 30 mins behind, got soaked.  Some sort of poetic justice I suppose...

At the hotel, there was a wedding in full swing as we entered the car-park.  Whoops, hope I didn't ruin the wedding video...

Once all safely counted in, Abdul saw fit to treat us to a farewell dinner... but Ken, Sam & Alan must have decided they didn't like our Company and shot off elsewhere.  Maybe a better offer, who knows... just a shame, eh ?

That was it, the last supper .... and with very little to do in Mohan, it was an early night with the border crossing scheduled for the morning.

Dad's Army.

Heading out for our last full days ride, we chose the rural roads, and gave the Toll road a miss...

Got mixed up with some villagers returning from the market ... in the West, we get crucified for holding just a phone .... this lady is holding a child because the rear pillion seat is already full ! Its another world...

This gives you an idea of the scale of China ... this is km marker 2759.  Yes, this road is over 3000 km long ...

Market day, I guess ...

And then we round a corner and Abdul did warn us that the Police Check's are more stricter the closer you get to Laos.  So the 3 of us are pulled over, then we have to wait for everyone else to catch up.  The Swiss lads must have stopped for a picnic because we left at the same time, and in about 40km, they had got 45 mins behind !!  I could hear our Guide muttering ,,,, "Thank God its the last day with these muppets"

So we take some pics while we wait ...

When all present & correct, we are made to wait in a sort of holding pen, while someone higher up the chain of command is summoned to check permits, etc.

The heavens then opened, so I suppose at least that was good timing...

It took about an hour to clear this check, and then we rode in a bit of drizzle to our destination, Jinghong, and had been warned that it was a boring town with nothing to do.  So. I was figuring on an early night ...

But we did have to eat, and John had scouted out some open air restaurants by the river, so as it was the last night, I think Jeremy decided to let his hair down and join me in a few beers.  Mind you, at 2.5% abv strength, it was fairly safe ...

... and of course, Westerners are a magnet for drunk Asian men, no matter where you are.  So this pest annoyed us for 30 mins before he got the message to bugger off and leave us in peace...

We all headed back to the hotel, but on the way, I spied a few bars with some music, and a young crowd.... "OK Chaps, I'll see you in the morning, sleep well" .  I tried one bar, then moved to a second, which was getting livelier by the minute....

Can't remember what time I finally called it a night, but as it was my last real night in China, we only had 100 km the next day, and a noon check-out had been planned, ... it probably was late.  

On the way back, I took this grainy photo of what I can only describe as "Dads Army" ... the "officer" was briefing his motley collection of parking attendants/security guards of where to go enforce the law tonight ... Oh well, it made me smile, anyway ...

Boring night ... no way, Jinghong was one of the best places.

The bridge to nowhere.

Our itinerary was fairly scant when it came to information on the days ride, but today it did carry the brief note "Good mountain road G213".....and good it was .....

Bloody excellent, in fact ...

Stunning views...

And with Jeremy in front, my brakes got a good workout ! ....

This bridge just ends at the mountain face ! Presumably they will build a road or tunnel eventually, but a strange sight to see.

And just to remind us not to let our guard down, landslides such as this were quite common, sometimes blocking the whole road...

 ... but the diggers are usually not far away.

Stopped for a morning drink and the "shop" owner started bringing out chairs ....

And then the usual gas station photo call ....

Before arriving at our destination of Pu'er, where we were promised some co-ordinates via a text message...

 ... which didn't come by the time we got there.  This was the one aspect of the whole experience that tainted things.  Clearly Abdul was booking a hotel during the car ride that day, so after waiting for an hour, we finally get a call to say he has found one....

Anyway, he did find a nice new hotel, strangely called the Barcelona Hotel ...

... so after a shower we head out and join him for a beer .... no hard feelings, eh !

Which turned into a meal too, on the street.  Heading the long way back to the hotel, I managed to talk J & J into a few more beers, but by 9pm, the blogs were calling and we all headed back.

Has world War 3 started ?

A couple more shots of Dali as I walked back to the Sister hotel where we had left the bikes...

Abdul, the Guide, had asked we assemble for a 9am departure, so suited and booted, we all wait in the scorching heat .... while Ken now decides its time to adjust his chain ! Grrrr.

Onto yet another Toll road, where John lines up to "shoot the barrier" just as soon as that car clears...

 ... but clear skies and decent surface are the rewards.

You may recall that our route was changed at the last minute, due to road closures and bridge collapses in Tibet ... there was a lot of Chinese Whispers going on that it was just an excuse for the Guide to take us on an easier route, and that the closures were not true.

We didn't know who to believe, when we happened to meet up with Helge Pedersen, the founder of the well respected Globe Riders organisation.  He confirmed what a bad state the Tibetan roads were in as he also had to re-route a tour...

In the mean time, Alan with the Swiss lads, had incurred the wrath of the UK organiser, Motoexplorers, and I got sight of some e-mail exchanges that basically said "if you think you can do better alone, here is your refund and off you go then".  Tensions were high to say the least, and it had become an us & then situation now, with Max and his girl staying in neutral territory.

Max, who is already carrying 6 months worth of his luggage,
now has to make room for the girl, and her Autumn collection !

 In this mountainous region, you are either driving on a bridge...

... or going through a tunnel.

Ahhh... love at first sight, he tells me.

Another nice hotel ... I have to say the accommodation choices have usually been amongst the best each city had to offer.

Tonight we were in the city of Lincang.  It seemed like it was in the process of being built, with the roads all 4-lane, and arranged in a grid, but without the blocks being filled in yet..

... until our evening search for food took us past this huge high-rise apartment development.

We were lucky to find somewhere to eat, and after the hour walk back to the hotel, I was in no fit shape to walk back an hour to the city, just to seek some action. An early night was the only option. but as we walked through reception about 8pm, we find Abdul had been waiting there for around 5 hours for the 2 Swiss lads & Alan, who had apparently hung back, then disappeared on an "off-road" route they found on the GPS.

Abdul explained that every night, once we are all checked in, he gives the hotel his id-card, and they inform the local police.  The Police then visit the hotel and check all the permits, before we get our passports back.

The hotel were also getting upset that half of us had checked in early and they too, wanted to get the paperwork finished and wanted that police visit over and done with.  I suspect some of their "customers" don't relish a Police presence late at night for obvious reasons !

Not surprisingly, tempers were running high as I went to bed ....