Monday, 10 August 2015

Je m'appelle Russ

Woke, and scurried down to check the bike .... hmmm, the tyre still had the same pressure as when I left it the night before.  OK pump her up to 40 psi, and go for breakfast.
An hour later, still at 40 psi.  What to do ??

Now the "armchair experts" will say I should have changed the tube, but I recalled earlier days when I ran my notoriously un-maintained KDX200 for 3 years after this goey stuff has sealed a puncture, and in fairness, I thought it might even be an advantage to leave it in there ... heavily swayed by the fact I was too lazy to unpack the left pannier to find the spare tube.
So, all packed and ready to leave by 10am.


Stopped briefly by this display/monument to, I guess the military prowess of Bulgaria, but there were no signs to indicate why ... quick photo, check the tyre, and I'm off.

Well 70 km down the road, and I suspected the back end of the Trannie was weaving a little ... Yup, the bloody thing had suddenly decided to go down.  Saw a village ahead, and turned off into its main square ... I figured if I was going to change the tube that's a good as place as any.  Shade, and perhaps a kind villager.

Sure enough, within minutes of getting the tools out, two Bulgarian farmer types appeared.  They spotted the problem, one ran off, and was right back with some tyre plugs.  Now for those who don't know, these plugs work well on car tyres that don't use tubes, but won't work with spoked tyres and inner tubes.  It almost became WW3 as I tried to stop them pushing one into the tyre ... they were so insistent, and finally I had to unpack just to show them a tube, in the vain hope they would understand.

Success, so then with some gesticulation, they communicated to me there was a "tyre repair man" about 2 km away ... one offers to lead me, so I pumped a bit more air into the tyre, then followed his belching 2-stoke moped to the aforementioned man.

Now communication was a bit of an issue, but I thought if I took the wheel out, he would take over from there.  It worked, and within seconds (and the help of his machines) he had the tube out.  The hole was too large for comfort so I gave him a new tube to fit.  10 mins later job, done and I'm ready to roll .... but No, he wanted to chat, introduce me to the family, and show me the farm.

Now my Bulgarian is zilch, but turns out he spent 7 years in Belgium and spoke French .... ha, I learned a bit of that at school.  So with a "Je m'appelle Russ" and a lost of "c'est bons", the ice was broken.  (For my native Thai readers, that translates to "My name is Russ", and "very good").

With time ticking, I'm now inside the house, and having drinks forced down me.  One by one, more family members appear, including a wailing baby .... great ! Then Mama brings out food ... they had me cornered on the sofa, and escape looked futile.  Oh, grin and bear it ... I was a little hungry by now.
More appeared after this.

So after a delicious bean soup, and something I'm going to call a hamburger, its all smiles hugs and handshakes, and I'm off.  All attempts to pay for the service failed.

Cracked on down some wonderful scenic & twisty roads getting into Burgas at about 5.30 pm... pulled up on the pavement outside the hotel, and while just pulling out one bag to check-in, Bulgarian bitch from hell appears and says I cant park outside her office window.  I try to point to the hotel sign that spans both her office and reception, but while her spoken English is good, her powers of reasoning simply dont exist.
My room - above her office !

After a heated exchange I lost my rag, and shouted "5 bloody minutes, thats all", and if that wasn't good enough then she could move the effing bike herself (she looked muscular enough to do it).

And then my welcoming man on reception clearly needs retraining in customer skills .... I asked where to leave the bike and all I got was a grunt and a shrug of the shoulders.   Can't wait to write the review on this place. although perhaps he's the owner !

So that was it, welcome to Bulgaria.... and my first rest day tomorrow.

Left the bike here in the end, padlocked to that tree on the left, and in view from my bed.


Sunday, 9 August 2015

The Transfagarasan Pass - the bits Top Gear didn't show.

What a day of ups & downs ...

Left Sibiu at 8am as I knew it was going to be a long day ... how true that turned out to be.
There's the mountains.
 Within 30 minutes, I'm at the start of the Pass ...but wait, no, the GPS is indicating there is an "alternative" route, so curiosity gets the better of me, and and turn left.  Within a few km, the unpaved road, crosses a stream...

 With the stream successfully forded, the "road" becomes more like a "track" in my book ...

And then the track becomes more like path....

And wet grass with hidden ruts are a lethal combination, even for a Trail bike, let alone a fully laden Transalp with road tyres ......
& down we go !

No damage, just a loose mirror... carry on regardless, only to find a barbed wire fence across the track... bugger.
However, I see a gravel road ahead. so pick my way to it.


Now here is the most remarkable coincidence; I could have stopped anywhere on that road to straighten my mirror, but after I eased to a stop, got off, looked down, and I lie, not.
There is a crispy 100 Lei note (about £30) lying in the ditch.  This photo is exactly what I saw.


I don't believe in much that is not scientifically provable, but there's forces at work here !!  However, not to question the why's and wherefores of possible divine intervention .... I pocketed it !


So, back onto the tarmac and the Pass itself...
Avalanche tunnel

No guard rail on this drop off.








Couple of tunnels just before the summit.




Got a fellow biker to take this pic ....

Nice chap from Poland ... didn't know when I said bye, our paths would cross later in the day. 


Amazing civil engineering, if that sort of stuff impresses you.

Well back to the post title .... the Top Gear team claimed this was the ultimate road, and in fairness, it really is a fantastic ride, BUT....
They must have had the road to themselves that day, probably paid the Police off, and all they televised was the good bits.
In reality, on a weekend, the Pass is more like a procession of cars with ....

Stupid parking

Walkers everywhere

Stopping anywhere

Congestion

Buses blocking one lane of a tunnel entrance

Idiots backing out blindly

Poor road surface on corners.

























So with the Pass behind me, it was a long hot afternoon of comparatively dull roads all the way to the Bulgarian border.

At 4pm, back on schedule, I hit the queue for the Border ... which is a long bridge over the River Danube.  The Romanian guards one side, and the Bulgarian the other.  However, the queue didn't move for 3 hours, and I'm just about wondering if it will be another night in Romania, perhaps in the tent.

All of a sudden, Brrrrub, honk, honk ... alongside pulls the Polish biker I met earlier on the pass.
He asks what the problem is, to which I shrug my shoulders.  He dismounts, walks away, is back in 10 mins and says follow me.  So up the side of the queue we jump ... the Police don't seem to worry, and within seconds we are on the bridge.  Once on the Bulgarian side, we queue jump straight to a barrier that is closed and unmanned.  A guard appears from no-where, checks our passports, and we are in.

Matey rides off with a wave ... don't know who he was, or what pull he had,... but as they say, never judge a book by its cover.

But my day doesn't end there ... 2.5 km exactly from the guest house ...

My first flat tyre.  Could see the nail, so pulled it out and tried the "Fix-a-flat" can.  Doesn't do exactly what it says on the tin.

So, out with the compressor, and put enough air in to get me to the Guest House.  Its getting dark, I have been on the road for 12 hours, so a beer, shower & bed was on the cards .  Yes, in that order.

I'll worry about the tyre in the morning ... Goodnight.



Saturday, 8 August 2015

Leaving Hungary, entering Romania

Those shots last night ... well, they were from a home brewed Palinika (made from Plums, evidently).  I thought I had better find out the name of what did the damage !
So, after some strong coffee and Hungarian sausage, I got on my way ....

A cooler start to the day .... not for long.
Entering Romania, I change some money at the border.

Still flat as a pancake.

You always catch up with them in the bends.

Some great sections in-between the bad,
Rural Romanian life.

And then the GPS sent me down here !
Its even got a "D number" as a main road.

3km later, and I'm out of trouble, onto a new freshly paved bit.

Nows thats a birds nest.

Now some mountains finally beckon.

Its getting better.

Nirvana.

Twisties .... bring em on.

So thats how they build them .... woman on the top, I see.

Quick pose.


Stopped in this pretty city ...the name escapes me.




And finished the day with a 60 km blat down the motorway to Sibiu...
Real old town charm.

Checked in ... could not have asked for safer parking in the hotel courtyard.

More like a room in an old house, than a hotel room.

Went for an evening stroll.


The Bridge of Lies.

The place had a festival going, and was buzzing.

Live Cossack dancing



With the celebrations going on well into the night.
Note to self : Come back to Sibiu when I have more time.