Sunday, 6 September 2015

Leaving civilisation

Today we were heading for a place called Naryn, which had been described as a small town, with nowhere to stay, no fuel to buy, and no food to eat !  So that's was it... fill up every receptacle with petrol, and stuff the pockets full of Snickers bars.

Still can't shake the mountains on our left.
Some wild horses ... a bit like the New Forest but they move faster.
Not long before the climb.
And finally, mountains.
The road was amazing, considering it pretty much led to no-where.
Nice lakes ....
... and the rivers that feed them.
But eventually we got to a bit they had not finished yet.
Waiting on Jeremy
Then as we got closer, some road works appeared, and I was confused.
After all, Naryn was supposed to be the last outpost before China... maybe the rumours were wrong, maybe it had gone through a renaissance, but we headed for a "new" hotel that Jeremy had dug up on the net.  It wasn't through a booking site, just a poor website that was not in English and seemed dated.

The gates were locked, so we rode around them expecting to find a derelict or abandoned place, but instead found a spotless collection of three new hotel buildings, set in soon to be manicured grounds...
The first was a wooden affair...
... with the other two rather more conventional.
The restaurant (and chandeliers) would not have looked out of place in Buckingham Palace....
.... and they served Pizza !!

Well, what an end to the day ... and it just goes to show when touring ... expect the unexpected.  So after stuffing my face on pizza & beer (probably the last for a month) I retired to my "log cabin".  Honestly, I think I was the first to sleep in the room, judging by the manufacturing stickers still in the shower tray and lining the bog !

For future global travellers, its called the Khan Tengri Hotel, and as with everywhere I stay, it will be on Open Street Map for all to find.

So a final good nights sleep was planned, as tomorrow night was going to be in a freezing tent at 3000 mts .... and thats assuming we could find fuel to get there.
zzzzzz zzzzzzzz zzzzz

Saturday, 5 September 2015

Bishkek rest day

Ah, a day of rest ....

But a bike to clean, clothes to wash, and a tyre to change first.

Got some directions to a local laundry, but just could not find it ... but did stumble on a car wash.  Paid a pound and the Trannie had a half-arsed clean by some young girl, who had the incredible talent of being able to  pressure wash a motorbike, while continuing a conversation with what sounded like her boyfriend, on a mobile phone held by her contorted neck.

The clothes can wait, so back to the hotel to change the tyre.

You know, I'm going to miss that tyre ... a bit like a lady on the back ...
except, you don't have to feed it, clothe it, listen to it,.... and it actually comes in useful one day !

Job done, and ready to roll in the morning .  Went out to eat with Jeremy fairly early in the evening, but after my third beer, and Jeremy on the coffee, I politely suggested he might want to go back to the hotel, and leave me there... which he did!

I'm back by 9.30, but its a Saturday night ... "OK Google ... nightclubs in Bishkek".  Evidently Bar 12 was the place to be seen, so a quick change, and into a taxi.

3 hours, $12, and 4 Corona's later, I was back... nice rooftop place, full of beautiful women.... all in their 20-30's. Yup, I was right out of place.  Home to bed....

Friday, 4 September 2015

What a difference a day makes ...

... 24 golden hours, as the song goes.

Today, was thankfully our last border crossing involving the Russian "Stans"....

Left Taraz and headed for the border.  There were two choices for getting to our next destination, Bishkek... the 300 km slog down the main highway, or a longer 500 km loop through the mountains.  We opted for the latter.

Cleared the border fairly painlessly, and were helped by one of the sweetest lady immigration officers I have ever met. I didn't mind the usual questions about where we were going, and been, but then it turned to past job, family, and why I didnt have kids !  She even hinted how nice it would be to travel the world on the back of a bike.   Meanwhile the waiting Krgys in the ever lengthening queue were getting more and more impatient.  Played along, until I heard the cha-chunk of the stamp in my passport, then made a hasty exit.

Within minutes, we saw the snow capped mountains, and that was our route. But firstly we had 40km of unpaved road to tackle, which was relatively easy as it was a smooth gravel surface.

And then it just got better and better, (and colder), all the way to 3300 mtrs, at the top of the pass....











And finally we descended down one of the best biking roads I have ever ridden.  OK, at the very end, we were hit with a US$ 5 toll charge, but it was well worth it.



And then into the Bishkek traffic...

Yes, compared to yesterday, this was such a change ... what a difference a day makes !

Thursday, 3 September 2015

Hail Mary, Hail Mary, Hail Mary

I'm now absolved of all my sins ....

Looked at Google for the weather today, which said scattered thunderstorms.  Looked out the window, and Mother Nature said, bright sunshine.  Now I have been teased by this morning sunshine before, and learned not to believe it, so I was prudent and put the waterproof linings into my riding gear.

Left the hotel, fuelled up, which in Kazakhstan is no problem any more, petrol stations a plenty.  Within 30 mins, we were climbing into the mountains. But then the skies started to darken ...

Darkening...

... and then some heavy rain ...

... wait, ouch, that rain is beginning to hurt ...

... its hail, and I had to stop ...

... it was horrendous, with no-where to shelter..

Hail the size of big peas.... trust me, they hurt.

After about 30 mins, the hail stopped and the sun came out for a short time, before the rest of the day was spent under riding cloudy skies, all the way to Taraz.
Boring scenery.

Not one of the best days, but making progress.  Got to our destination, like drowned rats, and we had four hotels marked into the GPS, as nothing was booked.  Did a tour to take them all in, but the choice was obvious ... the "best" in town.

Parked in front, got stuffed paying the rack rate (full price) for a tired old room, but after the day, a hot shower was all we needed ... yup, no hot water.

Well eventually after I went to reception to complain, they assured me it would come if I was patient.  She was right, 15 mins of patience paid off.

Had a walk around later, picked an eating venue, and met with Jeremy at 7pm, for food.  We walked back to my choice of eatery, and I was rather brave picking something off the menu that my translator could make out contained mutton, onions and carrots...

5 hours later, well you know what they say about carrots and how they have a habit of reappearing !  Will leave the rest to your imagination.

Wednesday, 2 September 2015

How can you close a border ?

Today, yet another border crossing ....

Left the hotel, with Jeremy just clipping the gate this time !  Then headed for the Zibkek-Joly border crossing that was only 20 mins away.  Going through one of those police checks, well, the traffic was moving, and I had a roll on.  I heard a whistle blow, but was it as me ? ...don't know, so head down, and zoom off.   For the next 10km, drivers were motioning and shouting things at us ... no idea why.

Then we reached the border ... CLOSED !  Some educated Muslim girl explained that it had been closed for some time, and we had to ride back about 60 miles (100km) to the nearest one that was open.  Bugger .. we had virtually driven past it the day before.  And then I seem to remember reading a blog post from one of last years Mongol Rally competitors, about this crossing... should have paid more attention, I guess.

So, not wanting to go though that Police checkpoint again, and incur the wrath of the Copper I possibly ignored, we worked out a route past it ... only to run into another one.  But at least this was pleasant, and after they wrote our details down, we even had time for a selfie.


And then in our haste to make up lost time, we went a bit quicker than we should and got pulled for speeding.  Not seeing any speed gun, we simply played dumb and said we were not.  They eventually relented and let us go without any money exchanging hands.

The border into Kazakhstan (now the second visit) was quiet and we passed through without any hassle.  We were expecting another full search leaving Uzbekistan, but this time, it was just a cursory glance at the open panniers & top-box.  Nevertheless, another 2-3 hours taken from our day.

What, no queue !

The plan was to make Shymkent and if time permitted, ride further on if things went well.  Clearly with the earlier delays, and the onset of some inclement weather, pushing on was not an option, and agreed that here was a good place to stop.  Found a hotel at random, which turned out to be quite nice, and it's reassuring when then let you leave the bikes outside reception, being visible throughout the night.

Shymkent rush hour traffic
Sanctuary
Had a nice meal in the hotel cafe, and I even had time to visit the hotel nightclub underneath, although was a strange affair.  A group of half a dozen people were dancing to some pretty loud thumping music ... but then they disappeared into a Karaoke booth, and the music was turned off.  Hmmm .. maybe I had inadvertently gate-crashed a private party.

Off to bed, then, with the knowledge that thunderstorms had been predicted for the following day.



Tuesday, 1 September 2015

Vodka shots

Breakfast at the Lux, was passable, and then we asked the "benzine question" to our hosts .... the lady of the house runs out, and returns with big fat hubby, who speaks some English.  He insists that he shows us the way to the only station in town with fuel, and motions to meet him outside the front.

We were parked in the rear courtyard, and the entry/exit procedure involved navigating a partially open set of hinged steel gates, with wooden tables stacked behind.  Entry was easy ... if you clipped a door, it opened a bit more ..... exiting, well, it was like lock gates on a canal.   I guess in the haste, poor Jeremy miscalculated the width of the opening and clipped one with a pannier, which then closed the gap smaller, pushing him into the tables, and toppling the bike to 45 degrees.

Big Boris and me pulled the bike bike upright, and Jeremy took another shot, this time giving the gate a wider berth .... only to take the stack of tables out !  If he had not have hurt his wrist, it would have been comical.

Now my turn .... I simply moved the tables !

So onto the petrol station, and Boris did come to shake our hands, gave us a complimentary bottle of water, and hinted a "good review" would be nice.  I mentioned the son, and his expression conveyed that they must have been having loads of issues with him, not just his customer skills.

The road to Tashkent, the Capitol city, was mostly dual-carriageway, so on we blatted, ever mindful of the mercenary police with their possibly calibrated speed cameras, and definitely un-calibrated eyes.

Every 20-30 miles, you go through these TKZ stations... they pull you over at random for document checks.  We are the only two motorcyclists in Uzbekistan, so we look strange, and get pulled at most.... hardly random.

Stopped at a roadside restaurant for a late lunch, and the water feature outside was reminiscent of Thai restaurants.  There was no menu, so we had to order kebabs as its all we know.  Two came, with a salad, and some bread.  Scoffed the lot, about to leave, then the whole course was repeated ... I don't know why this happened, but we figured we had room in our bellys, so scoffed that too.




Into Tashkent, was like entering London traffic for the first time ... mayhem.  But the GPS did its stuff, and took us right to the hotel door.  Strange place .... it was situated in a residential street, but behind massive steel doors.

We motioned that we would like to keep the bikes in the courtyard inside, but clearly these doors didn't open.... we caalculated that if we took our  panniers off, then the bikes would fit through the smaller opening.  They did.


The rooms were spacious and I had a very nice suite .... we were beginning to think the US$40 was worth it, when I clocked the pool I was looking forward to taking a dip in ..... hmm, was just missing the tadpoles.  OK, so instead, will spend some time on the blog.... "may I have the Wifi password please" .... "No wifi, its public holiday", was the reply.

Now even the most technically challenged amongst you, probably realise that the internet does not shut down for public holidays.  And I was getting angry because I don't like to pay a lot for hotels, and when I do, I expect everything to be as advertised.

What else to do, but take a walk and look for a bar/cafe with beer & wifi hopefully.  I walked for miles amongst houses and tenement blocks ....and found nothing.... apart from a benzine station that was open (useful for the morning, I thought).

Came back to the hotel, and a bunch of Tajikistan men, had come to the city tonight, for "a good time".  We refused to be supplied with women later, be we succumbed to the beer, cantaloupe, and neat vodka they insisted on ramming down us.

They went on the prowl about 10pm,... me & Jeremy, the ride now taking its toll, went to bed.

Monday, 31 August 2015

Onto Samarkand

On the road from Bukhara to Samarkand, nothing happened .....

It was a really uneventful day.  We got on the road at 10am, and headed out to find some petrol (benzine, as I seem to be in the habit of calling it now).  The secret seems to be to ask your Hotelier as they seem to know, or have contacts.  It turns out it is available at one station in the city, on the road out to Samarkand.

I wondered how we could tell which of the many stations on the road, is the one with the benzene. The answer was obvious !

Again, it seems that being on a motorbike allows you to push in to the front, and nobody seemed to object.  Paid for our fuel in 98 x 1,000 Soon notes .... took me 5 mins to count out, but the cashier used a note-counter machine (like they have in banks) to verify it.

We motored on, virtually non-stop on a good quality dual carriageway, all the way to Samarkand. As we entered the heart of the city, we passed manicured parks & gardens, and it looked very nice. Fortunately the hotel was close so we made a quick plan to check-in and walk back.

We found the Lux hotel without any issues, but this family run hotel had put Son Number 1 on reception duty that day .... and clearly he didn't want to be there. Bad attitude from the start.  And then the rooms ... dire !  Everything was either painted brown, stained brown, or simply turned brown with old age.

The shower... didn't !  And the mattress was about as thin as a Band-aid plaster.  We were there now, so grin and bear it.  So within 30 mins, we headed back out for a late afternoon photo session.








Somehow stumbled into a Burger joint for our evening meal, but the wifi was good, so we used the opportunity to book our next hotel in Tashkent.  We both figured after the Lux, well lets splash out a bit on the next one... its bound to be worth it.