June and July were to do with the prearation, the actual trip starts on Aug 02.
After reading each page, click the next date on the list.
Friday 1 January 2021
To view posts Chronologically
Due to the frustrating way in how Blogger displays "last post first", to read the Blog in Chronological order, on the right you will see a column named BLOG ARCHIVE.
Sunday 4 October 2015
Final entry - Made it !
And that was it ... the ride from Nan to Chiang Mai was un-eventful, and although John had originally planned to visit Chiang Mai, he revised his plans and left Nan heading for Bangkok, where his bike would be shipped back to the States.
That left me to ride back on the road Thai bikers claim is the best in Thailand ... Hwy 1091 and 1251.
The speedometer showed I had covered 11,872 miles (just under 19,000 km).
I guess that ends the daily Blog ... both me & the bike need a rest, but will tidy up details of the exact (as opposed to planned) route, and reviews of the bike, gear, & accessories, at a later date.
That left me to ride back on the road Thai bikers claim is the best in Thailand ... Hwy 1091 and 1251.
 |
| Leaving Cadnam |
 |
| Arriving Chiang Mai |
The speedometer showed I had covered 11,872 miles (just under 19,000 km).
I guess that ends the daily Blog ... both me & the bike need a rest, but will tidy up details of the exact (as opposed to planned) route, and reviews of the bike, gear, & accessories, at a later date.
Thanks for reading it !
Saturday 3 October 2015
Arriving The Land of Smiles
Leaving Pak Beng, we made our way to the ferry further down the river. Can you imagine the mood of the Ferryman as he works under the shadow of the new bridge being built...
So we reach the ferry, and the river levels are lower than the end of the concrete ramp ... but this small fact does not deter the driver of the truck. So the locals prepare a sort of runway from a few old boards and planks ... and it was just a few...
The Captain rams the ferry into the sand as high as he can, then the truck driver floors it ....
No way, and the Mekong sand wins the day, but now the spare wheel has trapped the ferry, so how the hell are we going to get across ?
So a smaller ferry appears, and I see John's face sink as the solution to our dilemma becomes painfully obvious...
There was hardly enough room to turn the big BMW around, but they got there eventually...
I think John felt safer staying on the bike as we cast off...
... and they they came to collect the fares.
We had a small issue on the fact that people tell you, "they accept US dollars everywhere in Laos" ... well that's everywhere except ferries ! Fortunately I had a few Thai Baht that we forced them to accept but I imagine the exchange rate was loaded in their favour.
Getting off was much easier then it was a nice 100km spin to the Thailand border...
Exiting Laos at my favourite crossing, Ngeune, was also painless and quick, and then it was the turn of Thai immigration ....
.. they are very helpful here, and are not only happy to fill in the Temporary Import Forms for you, but even write the phone number down on it, of a helpful family member who sells insurance !
And into the familiar rolling green hills of Nan province, Thailand....
John enjoys the road, and it wasn't long before we were met by a couple of Thai biker friends, Andy & Oddvar, who had ridden out to meet us.
A coffee on the way, and taking a scenic route back via Santisouk, we were still in our hotel in Nan by late afternoon. Drinks by the river at the "Gay bar" (Nan Steak house) and then a meal, finished the day off.
So we reach the ferry, and the river levels are lower than the end of the concrete ramp ... but this small fact does not deter the driver of the truck. So the locals prepare a sort of runway from a few old boards and planks ... and it was just a few...
The Captain rams the ferry into the sand as high as he can, then the truck driver floors it ....
No way, and the Mekong sand wins the day, but now the spare wheel has trapped the ferry, so how the hell are we going to get across ?
So a smaller ferry appears, and I see John's face sink as the solution to our dilemma becomes painfully obvious...
There was hardly enough room to turn the big BMW around, but they got there eventually...
I think John felt safer staying on the bike as we cast off...
... and they they came to collect the fares.
We had a small issue on the fact that people tell you, "they accept US dollars everywhere in Laos" ... well that's everywhere except ferries ! Fortunately I had a few Thai Baht that we forced them to accept but I imagine the exchange rate was loaded in their favour.
Getting off was much easier then it was a nice 100km spin to the Thailand border...
Exiting Laos at my favourite crossing, Ngeune, was also painless and quick, and then it was the turn of Thai immigration ....
And into the familiar rolling green hills of Nan province, Thailand....
John enjoys the road, and it wasn't long before we were met by a couple of Thai biker friends, Andy & Oddvar, who had ridden out to meet us.
A coffee on the way, and taking a scenic route back via Santisouk, we were still in our hotel in Nan by late afternoon. Drinks by the river at the "Gay bar" (Nan Steak house) and then a meal, finished the day off.
Friday 2 October 2015
Into Laos
The ride to the border post from the hotel was less than a mile, and in fairness, for a border town, it was well groomed ....
Last chance to buy a carved elephant..
It took about 2 hours for Police and Customs to come and check our bikes, and us, and then we were given the all clear to go. Abdul followed us to the very last check, and then with a wave, we were suddenly out of China, and in the no-mans land between there and the Laos Immigration.
My thoughts were with Abdul and his driver as they now faced an 8 day drive, back through China to our starting point (and Abdul's home) in Kashgar.
Soon the fake splendour of Laos Immigration hits us ...
We park up, and I thought I was smart putting US$ 35 in a pocket to cover the Laos visa exactly ... No, first there is a US$ 3 environmental charge, and then another $ 2 processing fee. and I think one more if memory serves.
It takes about an hour of bun-fighting at the window to get in, and then we get on our way, but I was wondering what had happened to Customs. About 5 km down the road, it provided the answer as we get to the Customs post. Here you hand in your bike registration, and they give you a Temporary Import Certificate. Fairly painless, so for the second time, we get ready for a long ride.
Alan was with us one minute, then simply disappeared, so we never had a chance to say Goodbye, but myself, John, and Jeremy did have a final lunch in Oudomxay. Jeremy headed off to Luang Prabang, and myself and John headed for Chiang Mai.
There was a sudden downpour about 3pm, just as a way of reminding us rainy season was still on us ... never mind, in 30 mins, it was all over.
We were not sure how far we would get that day ... I was pushing on, but it was a good call when around 5pm, John suggested we stay in Pak Beng overnight ... obviously the right decision as we drank a beer overlooking the Mekong. After all, we were in no hurry.
I had stayed in this hotel before, but the last time it was nursing a broken ankle ! So, while the hotel was familiar, this time I had mobility, and there were a lot of bars to discover ... which John helped me do !
Thailand tomorrow.
Last chance to buy a carved elephant..
It took about 2 hours for Police and Customs to come and check our bikes, and us, and then we were given the all clear to go. Abdul followed us to the very last check, and then with a wave, we were suddenly out of China, and in the no-mans land between there and the Laos Immigration.
My thoughts were with Abdul and his driver as they now faced an 8 day drive, back through China to our starting point (and Abdul's home) in Kashgar.
Soon the fake splendour of Laos Immigration hits us ...
 |
| .... and the Disinfectant spray ... nice welcome ! |
It takes about an hour of bun-fighting at the window to get in, and then we get on our way, but I was wondering what had happened to Customs. About 5 km down the road, it provided the answer as we get to the Customs post. Here you hand in your bike registration, and they give you a Temporary Import Certificate. Fairly painless, so for the second time, we get ready for a long ride.
Alan was with us one minute, then simply disappeared, so we never had a chance to say Goodbye, but myself, John, and Jeremy did have a final lunch in Oudomxay. Jeremy headed off to Luang Prabang, and myself and John headed for Chiang Mai.
There was a sudden downpour about 3pm, just as a way of reminding us rainy season was still on us ... never mind, in 30 mins, it was all over.
We were not sure how far we would get that day ... I was pushing on, but it was a good call when around 5pm, John suggested we stay in Pak Beng overnight ... obviously the right decision as we drank a beer overlooking the Mekong. After all, we were in no hurry.
I had stayed in this hotel before, but the last time it was nursing a broken ankle ! So, while the hotel was familiar, this time I had mobility, and there were a lot of bars to discover ... which John helped me do !
Thailand tomorrow.
Thursday 1 October 2015
The Last Supper.
Checked out at 12 noon on the dot, nursing a bit of a hangover. Gingerly followed Abdul out of the city ...
The last stint was not a Toll road, but was still was a 2-lane, well built highway. I was going to say it wound its way through the mountains towards Laos, but in reality, the Chinese took a more straight line approach, and tunnels and bridges were the order of the day...
And as if to say Goodbye to us, even though this wasn't a toll road, the buggers saw it in their wisdom to ban motorbikes on this one too !
Arriving at our hotel in Mohan, we just got there before the rain ... the Swiss lads & Alan, who were about 30 mins behind, got soaked. Some sort of poetic justice I suppose...
At the hotel, there was a wedding in full swing as we entered the car-park. Whoops, hope I didn't ruin the wedding video...
Once all safely counted in, Abdul saw fit to treat us to a farewell dinner... but Ken, Sam & Alan must have decided they didn't like our Company and shot off elsewhere. Maybe a better offer, who knows... just a shame, eh ?
That was it, the last supper .... and with very little to do in Mohan, it was an early night with the border crossing scheduled for the morning.
The last stint was not a Toll road, but was still was a 2-lane, well built highway. I was going to say it wound its way through the mountains towards Laos, but in reality, the Chinese took a more straight line approach, and tunnels and bridges were the order of the day...
And as if to say Goodbye to us, even though this wasn't a toll road, the buggers saw it in their wisdom to ban motorbikes on this one too !
Arriving at our hotel in Mohan, we just got there before the rain ... the Swiss lads & Alan, who were about 30 mins behind, got soaked. Some sort of poetic justice I suppose...
At the hotel, there was a wedding in full swing as we entered the car-park. Whoops, hope I didn't ruin the wedding video...
Once all safely counted in, Abdul saw fit to treat us to a farewell dinner... but Ken, Sam & Alan must have decided they didn't like our Company and shot off elsewhere. Maybe a better offer, who knows... just a shame, eh ?
That was it, the last supper .... and with very little to do in Mohan, it was an early night with the border crossing scheduled for the morning.
Wednesday 30 September 2015
Dad's Army.
Heading out for our last full days ride, we chose the rural roads, and gave the Toll road a miss...
Got mixed up with some villagers returning from the market ... in the West, we get crucified for holding just a phone .... this lady is holding a child because the rear pillion seat is already full ! Its another world...
This gives you an idea of the scale of China ... this is km marker 2759. Yes, this road is over 3000 km long ...
Market day, I guess ...
And then we round a corner and Abdul did warn us that the Police Check's are more stricter the closer you get to Laos. So the 3 of us are pulled over, then we have to wait for everyone else to catch up. The Swiss lads must have stopped for a picnic because we left at the same time, and in about 40km, they had got 45 mins behind !! I could hear our Guide muttering ,,,, "Thank God its the last day with these muppets"
So we take some pics while we wait ...
When all present & correct, we are made to wait in a sort of holding pen, while someone higher up the chain of command is summoned to check permits, etc.
The heavens then opened, so I suppose at least that was good timing...
It took about an hour to clear this check, and then we rode in a bit of drizzle to our destination, Jinghong, and had been warned that it was a boring town with nothing to do. So. I was figuring on an early night ...
But we did have to eat, and John had scouted out some open air restaurants by the river, so as it was the last night, I think Jeremy decided to let his hair down and join me in a few beers. Mind you, at 2.5% abv strength, it was fairly safe ...
... and of course, Westerners are a magnet for drunk Asian men, no matter where you are. So this pest annoyed us for 30 mins before he got the message to bugger off and leave us in peace...
We all headed back to the hotel, but on the way, I spied a few bars with some music, and a young crowd.... "OK Chaps, I'll see you in the morning, sleep well" . I tried one bar, then moved to a second, which was getting livelier by the minute....
Got mixed up with some villagers returning from the market ... in the West, we get crucified for holding just a phone .... this lady is holding a child because the rear pillion seat is already full ! Its another world...
This gives you an idea of the scale of China ... this is km marker 2759. Yes, this road is over 3000 km long ...
Market day, I guess ...
And then we round a corner and Abdul did warn us that the Police Check's are more stricter the closer you get to Laos. So the 3 of us are pulled over, then we have to wait for everyone else to catch up. The Swiss lads must have stopped for a picnic because we left at the same time, and in about 40km, they had got 45 mins behind !! I could hear our Guide muttering ,,,, "Thank God its the last day with these muppets"
So we take some pics while we wait ...
When all present & correct, we are made to wait in a sort of holding pen, while someone higher up the chain of command is summoned to check permits, etc.
The heavens then opened, so I suppose at least that was good timing...
It took about an hour to clear this check, and then we rode in a bit of drizzle to our destination, Jinghong, and had been warned that it was a boring town with nothing to do. So. I was figuring on an early night ...
But we did have to eat, and John had scouted out some open air restaurants by the river, so as it was the last night, I think Jeremy decided to let his hair down and join me in a few beers. Mind you, at 2.5% abv strength, it was fairly safe ...
... and of course, Westerners are a magnet for drunk Asian men, no matter where you are. So this pest annoyed us for 30 mins before he got the message to bugger off and leave us in peace...
We all headed back to the hotel, but on the way, I spied a few bars with some music, and a young crowd.... "OK Chaps, I'll see you in the morning, sleep well" . I tried one bar, then moved to a second, which was getting livelier by the minute....
Can't remember what time I finally called it a night, but as it was my last real night in China, we only had 100 km the next day, and a noon check-out had been planned, ... it probably was late.
On the way back, I took this grainy photo of what I can only describe as "Dads Army" ... the "officer" was briefing his motley collection of parking attendants/security guards of where to go enforce the law tonight ... Oh well, it made me smile, anyway ...
Boring night ... no way, Jinghong was one of the best places.
Tuesday 29 September 2015
The bridge to nowhere.
Our itinerary was fairly scant when it came to information on the days ride, but today it did carry the brief note "Good mountain road G213".....and good it was .....
Bloody excellent, in fact ...
Stunning views...
And with Jeremy in front, my brakes got a good workout ! ....
This bridge just ends at the mountain face ! Presumably they will build a road or tunnel eventually, but a strange sight to see.
And just to remind us not to let our guard down, landslides such as this were quite common, sometimes blocking the whole road...
... but the diggers are usually not far away.
Stopped for a morning drink and the "shop" owner started bringing out chairs ....
And then the usual gas station photo call ....
Before arriving at our destination of Pu'er, where we were promised some co-ordinates via a text message...
... which didn't come by the time we got there. This was the one aspect of the whole experience that tainted things. Clearly Abdul was booking a hotel during the car ride that day, so after waiting for an hour, we finally get a call to say he has found one....
Anyway, he did find a nice new hotel, strangely called the Barcelona Hotel ...
... so after a shower we head out and join him for a beer .... no hard feelings, eh !
Which turned into a meal too, on the street. Heading the long way back to the hotel, I managed to talk J & J into a few more beers, but by 9pm, the blogs were calling and we all headed back.
Bloody excellent, in fact ...
Stunning views...
And with Jeremy in front, my brakes got a good workout ! ....
This bridge just ends at the mountain face ! Presumably they will build a road or tunnel eventually, but a strange sight to see.
And just to remind us not to let our guard down, landslides such as this were quite common, sometimes blocking the whole road...
... but the diggers are usually not far away.
Stopped for a morning drink and the "shop" owner started bringing out chairs ....
And then the usual gas station photo call ....
Before arriving at our destination of Pu'er, where we were promised some co-ordinates via a text message...
Anyway, he did find a nice new hotel, strangely called the Barcelona Hotel ...
... so after a shower we head out and join him for a beer .... no hard feelings, eh !
Which turned into a meal too, on the street. Heading the long way back to the hotel, I managed to talk J & J into a few more beers, but by 9pm, the blogs were calling and we all headed back.
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